Baileys of Glenrowan 2009 Rutherglen Petit Sirah

Ah, varietal synonyms! Don't you just love the little devils? Unpacking the December 1870s Club pack from Baileys I was mildly bemused (not an uncommon occurrence in these parts) by the presence of both a Durif and a Petit Sirah, varieties that are, as far as I can make out, synonymous.

The notes accompanying the pack suggested the name differentiation stemmed from different handling of two parcels of fruit, and (total surmise here) the parcel that went through French oak treatment acquired the French varietal moniker, while American oak treatment suggested use of the American synonym.

Baileys of Glenrowan 2009 Rutherglen Petit Sirah (4.5* $25) While its cousin/brother was remarkably understated for a Durif, this one takes things a step further with softer, rounder and more velveteen tannins across the palate. Richly aromatic on the nose, it scored a big seal of approval from Madam, to the point where I'm looking seriously at a reorder. Available in half-dozen lots (15% discount and freight free for 1870s Club members) a six-pack should do us for the duration of a regular Bowen chilly winter (i.e. the week when the overnight minimum drops below 10).

Baileys of Glenrowan 2009 Rutherglen Durif

I may be wrong, but the incorporation of Baileys into the Fosters corporate conglomerate (an entity that I'd normally be wanting to steer well clear of, given my preference for small, family-owned operations) seems to have had something to do with the winery's capacity to handle quantities of fruit that can't be removed from the area due to issues with phylloxera. Given the experience with Seppeltsfield, one doubts that it had much to do with extensive stocks of fortifieds.

Such issues probably explain the presence of Rutherglen rather than Glenrowan on the labels of cousin-brothers 2009 Durif and 2009 Petit Sirah in the most recent 1870s Club pack.

Baileys of Glenrowan 2009 Rutherglen Durif (4.5* $25/ $21.25 1870s Club) The conventional wisdom suggests that those who prefer subtle, understated reds should be giving Durif, with high alcohol levels and big flavours to match, the big flick pass, I found this remarkably understated. There's still plenty of rich full-bodied fruit flavour there, but it's nicely balanced and went down a treat. Better cellaring conditions and/or a genuine winter could well prompt a reorder, though it works very well as a short term drinking style.

Baileys of Glenrowan Founder Liqueur Muscat

Back when I was starting to develop an interest in Australian wine, Len Evans' Complete Book of Australian Wine was, to all intents and purposes, the bible (at least it was in my neck of the woods) and while some of the icons that emerged from its pages have been supplanted in my own estimation, I think an abiding appreciation of north-east Victorian liqueur muscat will be with me till they carry me away in the pine box.

Baileys of Glenrowan Founder Liqueur Muscat NV (4.5* $25/ $21.25 1870s Club) While it's impossible to be entirely accurate where memory is concerned, the varietal intensity through the nose and across the palate takes me right back to the old HJT Liqueur Muscat, my own long term benchmark for the style. Full-flavoured with a lusciouusness across the palate that will keep the I'm getting a bit of crowd busy, Obtaining a regular supply was the main reason for joining the 1870s Club, and i want a bottle of this as a permanent fixture on top of the wine rack, at least until I can afford the Winemakers Selection Rare Old Muscat ($75/ $53,75 1870s Club for 375ml on a regular basis.

Baileys of Glenrowan 2008 1920s Block Shiraz

I'm not a big fan of flowery descriptive terms when it comes to wine, but as I took my first whiff of this a couple of months back for some reason my mind went back to the dusty ancient leather-bound encyclopaedia Britannicas that were shelved beside the fireplace in the landlady's half of the majestic old Queenslander where my family lived until we moved north in 1963.

With a couple of substantial orders on the way it's a case of clearing things out to make room in the rack, so I've been revisiting some things that have previously been tasted and reviewed on the website.

Baileys 2008 1920s Block Shiraz (4.5* $35/$29.75 1870s Club) Leather notes on the nose, abundant tannins, surprisingly silky mouth-feel (I was expecting something substantially bigger and bolder when I first tried this one) combine to result in a wine that's complex, stylish and quite delightful. At 16% alc/vol, this is a wine that could easily creep up on you and should last well into the 2020s. While there's no guarantee Hughesy will still be around to enjoy it when it really hits its straps there's some left in the wine fridge.

Baileys of Glenrowan 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Relocated)

Under normal circumstances I'm wary of the offshoots of the big corporates, but Baileys of Glenrowan occupies a special place in my personal wine iconography, thanks to the old HJT Liqueur Muscat, whichexplains the apparent inconsistency. I joined the 1870 Club because the freight free delivery would probably keep me in Liqueur Muscat and Tokay (along with thje odd bottle from Pfeiffers), but the 1904Block and 1920s Block Shiraz have found a niche in the wine fridge, and I may well be back for more of this one.

Baileys of Glenrowan 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (4.5* $25) Arrived as part of 1870s Club shipment, and presumably available cellar door or phone call only, since it doesn't appear on the website. Surprisingly soft (I was expecting something substantially bigger) fruit-driven style with smoothly rounded tannins and a very moreish mouth-feel. May not be one for the long haul, but could well be part of a reorder after I've tried the other three reds in the pack.